How to hire and verify a contractor for grab bars, ramps and accessible showers
Most accessibility work is small: a few grab bars, a handrail, a short ramp. Small jobs still go wrong in ways that hurt people, like a grab bar that pulls out of the wall the first time someone falls against it. This guide covers how to check a contractor, what the job should include, and what to ask before you sign. It is based on California rules from the Contractors State License Board (CSLB) and on ordinary jobsite practice.
Get the right assessment first. If the person has a health condition, a fall history, or uses a walker or wheelchair, an occupational therapist (OT) can say what will actually help and where it should go. Ask the doctor for a referral, or ask your Area Agency on Aging. Some programs, like Rebuilding Together Sacramento, can arrange an OT visit. Medi-Cal home modification benefits usually require a therapy evaluation anyway.
Step 1: Check the license (it takes two minutes)
- When a license is required: CSLB says anyone doing home improvement work worth $1,000 or more (labor and materials combined) must be licensed, and any job that needs a permit or has workers needs a licensed contractor.
- How to check: Ask for the license number, then look it up on the CSLB license check or call 800-321-CSLB (2752). Make sure the license is active. The lookup also shows the bond, workers' compensation status, and any complaints or discipline.
- Match the person: CSLB suggests asking to see the pocket license and a photo ID and making sure the names match.
- Door-to-door salespeople must be registered with CSLB as Home Improvement Salespersons. Ask to see the registration card; you can look it up with the same CSLB tool.
- Right kind of license: License pages show each contractor's classification (for example, general building, plumbing or electrical). Ask the contractor which classification covers your job. If you aren't sure, call CSLB.
Step 2: Ask about permits
CSLB tells homeowners to check with the local building department to see whether the job needs a permit, and to make sure the contractor gets every permit that's needed. Grab bars on their own often don't need one. Moving plumbing for a roll-in shower, adding a circuit, or building a permanent ramp often does. Your city or county building department decides, not the contractor. Ask for the permit number and keep the final inspection card.
Grab bars: what a solid install looks like
A grab bar is only as strong as what it's screwed into. Drywall and tile alone will not hold a person.
- Into framing or backing. The best install goes into wood blocking or plywood backing between the studs, or straight into studs when they line up. If the wall is open during a remodel, ask for blocking at every spot a bar might go later. It costs little then and a lot later.
- Where there's no stud: use only an anchor the bar's maker or the anchor's maker rates for grab bar loads in that wall type. Ask the installer to name the anchor.
- Fiberglass or acrylic tub and shower surrounds are tricky. Ask exactly how the bar will be anchored and whether backing is behind that panel.
- Seal every hole in a wet area with silicone so water doesn't get into the wall.
- Never use suction-cup "grab bars" as real support, and never treat a towel bar or a soap dish as a grab bar.
Reference numbers from the ADA standards
Private homes don't have to follow the ADA Standards for Accessible Design, but the standards are a useful, published reference. Your OT may adjust heights for the person who will use the bar.
- Round bars: outside diameter of 1¼ to 2 inches (section 609.2.1).
- Space between the wall and the bar: 1½ inches (609.3).
- Horizontal bars: top of the gripping surface 33 to 36 inches above the finished floor (609.4).
- Strength: the bar, fasteners, mounting and wall must handle 250 pounds of force applied at any point (609.8).
Source: U.S. Access Board, 2010 ADA Standards, sections 609 and 405.
Ramps: the numbers to know
- Slope: the ADA standards allow no steeper than 1:12, meaning 1 inch of rise for every 12 inches of ramp (405.2). So a 24-inch rise needs 24 feet of ramp, not counting landings. Plan for the space.
- Rise per run: no more than 30 inches before a landing (405.6).
- Landings: at the top and bottom of each run, at least 60 inches long, and 60 by 60 inches where the ramp turns (405.7).
- Handrails: needed on runs that rise more than 6 inches (405.8). Keep at least 36 inches clear between handrails.
- Edge protection on the sides so wheels and feet can't slip off (405.9).
Ask whether the ramp is permanent (it may need a permit, and some programs only pay for permanent ramps) or modular or portable (some programs, like VA HISA, won't pay for portable ramps).
What a fair written quote should include
CSLB recommends at least three bids and a detailed written contract before work starts. Medi-Cal's home modification rules also ask for itemized bids. A good quote lists:
- The contractor's name, address, phone and CSLB license number.
- The exact scope: each grab bar location and length, ramp dimensions, shower size, and what gets torn out.
- Materials by brand and model where it matters (bar finish and length, valve, shower pan, tile).
- How things will be anchored (blocking, studs or a named rated anchor).
- Who pulls the permits, what they cost, and when inspections happen.
- Start date, phases and a payment schedule tied to finished work. Don't let payments get ahead of the work.
- The down payment. California limits it to 10% of the contract price or $1,000, whichever is less. CSLB notes an exception for a few contractors who carry a special blanket bond; that shows on their license page.
- Cleanup and debris removal.
- The warranty on labor and materials, in writing.
- How change orders work (in writing, with a price, before the extra work).
- Your right to cancel. CSLB says homeowners 65 or older get five business days to cancel a home improvement contract and everyone else gets three. Don't let work start or permits get pulled during that window.
Red flags
- Pressure to sign today, or a "today only" price.
- A free "inspection" that suddenly finds a dangerous problem.
- Demands for cash, or offers to drive you to the bank.
- A down payment above the legal limit.
- "We don't need a written contract."
- No license number, or a number that doesn't match the name.
- Contractor-arranged financing you haven't compared. CSLB warns the rate and term can be worse than a bank's.
- Asking you to sign on a tablet without giving you a paper copy right away.
Sources for this section: CSLB, "What Seniors Should Know Before Hiring a Contractor" (PDF); CSLB: Hire a Licensed Contractor.
Where to find installers
- Start with the free programs on your county page. Many use licensed contractors and do the vetting for you.
- The CSLB list by city or ZIP code shows licensed contractors near you.
- The NAHB CAPS directory lists Certified Aging-in-Place Specialists. CAPS is training, not a license, so check CSLB too.
This site does not recommend or endorse any contractor.